July 31, 2009
· Filed under Uncategorized
We are completely loving the Dampier Penisular (Ardi). I can’t believe we haven’t come here before. Let me advise all readers that this is a piece of paradise. We spent two nights at the last free camp north of Broome – Quandong Point, and then went up and camped at Chile Creek for three nights, a *very* small Aboriginal community (only 8 people!) just south of Lombadina. We had a day trip out to Cape Leveque, which is magnificent, and went over to One Arm Point on the off chance of bumping into someone I went to school with who is now a teacher there… but couldn’t find him. We spent another morning in Lombadina. We were going to have leave the penisular as it is all pretty much cash only at the camp sites here, but then P found $150 in his wallet!! So we now have another 3 nights here at Whalesong at Munget, which is even more beautiful…. hard to believe. And a fantastic vege garden too…. I think I might go and meditate in there tomorrow……. there’s nothing like a vege garden to get you grounded.
So at a budget blowing price the trailer is fixed….. just in time for us to realise that we don’t want it anymore. Regular readers may be unsurprised to learn that during the course of this trip we have been decluttering like mad. Three packages of stuff posted back to Perth (including the annex which was just 20kg of never used canvas) and four bags of stuff to the Good Sammies, plus numerous larger items such as stroller, chemi toilet, etc etc. (Unfortunately *different* stuff has replaced some of this) On a final decluttering mission, we are now losing the trailer itself. Yes, when we get back to Broome we’re putting this thing on a truck back to Perth, and investing in a good tent for the rest of the trip. This decision has met with a few concerned looks, but it seems inevitable. This trailer is just no good for the roads we want to do… it’s too heavy and too wide – including the wheels which are wider than the car’s. The road into Cape Leveque was fairly rough we thought….. then the german guy camped next to us at Chile Creek was telling us about some tracks he’d done from Uluru to the Tanami – which I had been looking at on the map just that morning! – and, I quote, the Cape Leveque Road is “like the autobahn” compared to those tracks. We were also inspired by a family who’d done some desert crossings with fuel drops, and basically we are fired up to go a bit more extreme (ditch the trailer in haste, repent at leisure…) P is joyfully projecting ahead to when we lose “this anchor” and no doubt we’ll save on fuel. We’re going to get a roofrack to carry gear, and it will be one that at least *some* of us can sleep in too. We’re now hoping to get to the Mitchell Falls and Kalumbaru, which weren’t initially on our radar….. but to get so close and not go seems a waste, when the chances of coming back again within the next 10 years are probably remote.
We seem to have hit our groove on this trip now…. and it feels like you could just keep on rollin’ forever. I think for me the trip sort of psychologically started at Broome, as from here we’re moving to places north we’ve never been too. The kids are having a ball. You should see them in their grotty clothes with dirty hands bouncing around with no belts on these tracks, belting out “Shot Gun Boogie” as it blares out of the stereo. Campfires, toasted marshmallows and P on guitar every night. Last night the guy in the next camp had a slide guitar and the girl had a great singing voice (and they were also struggling with bird identification and had the radio permanently tuned to RN) - we’ve met some great people. It seems that maybe “campers” are part of our tribe!
July 26, 2009
· Filed under The Big Lap, Uncategorized
Dear Reader, I thought you might like to share our awe at our changed circumstances. Aaahhhh. Clean.
We found a repairer based in Broome, so were able to give Karratha the big miss. We overnighted at Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park, where we could have stayed longer if we hadn’t been en route to our repairer. I was able to score this five star accommodation in Broome, as the hotel has been open less than a month and was offering massive discounts to last minute arrivals. Every cloud *does* have a silver lining!
I *love* Broome. I know it’s a tourist town, so shoot me, I still love it. We came here 16 years ago and P started making enquiries about work. Nothing happened and so we sort of forgot about it. Then many years later, in another silver lining, my job changed so I suddenly had to come to Broome every three months…. Love it. Love it. Indian cotton, plastic shoes and toerings…. 12 months a year. The musty smell of the tropical undergrowth. Mango smoothies and fruit crush. Acres of perfect beach. Great food, great coffee, great markets. And, you’re far, far away. Even in January, when you step off the plane into a wall of dripping heat, I still love it.
So, our ship is repaired and we return to real (trailer) life tomorrow, heading up the Dampier Penisular to Cape Leveque. I can leave Broome with no regrets…. because we’ll be back in a week!
July 20, 2009
· Filed under The Big Lap, parenting, spirituality
Arrived here today. Luckily for us a friend lives here on a part time basis, and is currently here, and we are bludging off him….. thank you M! So far we have found a potential trailer repair outfit in Karratha in eight days time… 250km *back* down the track….. the irony being of course that we were planning on not going to *either* Port Hedland *or* Karratha. Now we’re spending longish periods of time in both! Tomorrow I’m going to investigate possible options in Broome…. surely there must be someone in that caravan mecca earning squillions from the grey nomads?? Please let us go forwards!
On another topic completely, I found a copy of “Buddhism for Mothers with Lingering Questions” at the Exmouth secondhand bookshop and have been reading this recently. Quite topical for me. She quotes a mother:
“I’ve found a husband. We have a mortgage and three children. I have a part time job which fits into my life well, yet now I find myself asking, what next? Is the adventure finished? In other words, I have come face to face with my habit of always grasping for something new and stimulating.”
This is me. “Is the adventure finished?” This is my greatest fear. Even though I *know* the answer lies in the spiritual side of life, I mustn’t really believe this, as I am constantly planning more earthly experiences. I already have a “plan” to live in Spain for a year in 2013…. nominally so that the boys can be immersed in another culture and language…. but *really* because it helps me to postpone finding myself with no other plans but to live in the burbs and die. And I don’t think I’m actually doing my kids any favours with these “grand plans”. Maybe they’d actually be better off if I sent them to the local primary school and they had a routine life, from which they might develop some grand plans of their own. Rather than being wedged into mine. I have to say that despite some sublime moments, a road trip would almost certainly not be their choice. To see poor J’s face crumple with despair because he doesn’t want to get back into his seat is to feel like a bad mother.
Perhaps the trailer is wiser than me.
July 20, 2009
· Filed under The Big Lap
Exiting Karijini, we had unclear plans. Either straight through to Hedland for potential trailer repairs, or out to Marble Bar, and then onto Broome. A last minute decision at the Marble Bar Woodstock Road, had us turn that way. This turned out to be a absolutely beautiful road. No corrugations, and gorgeous country. We camped overnight (trailer went up) off this road, and then headed into Marble Bar, with a stop at the defunct Comet Gold Mine and the town itself – where we were able to purchase one loaf of frozen white bread, two litres of long life milk and, after some discussion, half a tank of diesel. While we’re dithering at the “shop” the lady asks:
“Is there something you’re looking for?”
Me: “A life plan”
Her: “You don’t want one of those! Just keep doing what your doing”
Me: “He’s asking me if we should get fuel, and I don’t know where we’re going”
Her: “Better get some fuel.”
Given that the trailer went up last night, we decide to head for Broome….. a good place to get stuck, if that’s what happens. We camp at Doolena Gorge, which is again beautiful – a permanent pool, abundant birdlife and we have it all to ourselves. But this time the trailer really isn’t going up. We end up with half a trailer at one end (think the office in “Being John Malkovich”) We can manage, sort of. It’s Sunday tomorrow, and it’s so nice here we’re going to stay an extra night in our half house, and then go to Hedland, to investigate possible repairs and/or putting this thing on a truck to Perth and going forward with tents. I’ll keep you posted.
July 20, 2009
· Filed under The Big Lap, parenting
After overnight at Beasley River (trailer goes up OK with assistance of rope) we arrive at Karijini. Mum has advised that Aunty G and Uncle R will be there on 13 & 14 July, so we have timed our arrival to coincide with them… a 400km trip on the off chance we find them in a 600 000 hectare national park. And lo, there they are…. our campsite neighbours. Serendipity. And Aunty G spoils us with dinner two nights in a row!
On the downside the trailer is really broken now. P has diagnosed a problem with the telescopic posts at the front end, and he initially solves this with an internal prop using the car jack and annex posts. He then upgrades to an external prop using the roof rack and the annex posts.
I think I may have put a hex on the trailer. Until about a day before our troubles started I was bemoaning this choice of camper. In my mind, it was the worst of all possible worlds – with many of the same limitations of a caravan, but none of the benefits! Ie, all the hassle of set up/pull down. Plus, I was disappointed that we were spending more time in it, then outside, and was really wanting an outdoor kitchen….. without carrying around essentially two kitchens (one indoor, and one outdoor) I looked on enviously at people with just a car and swags, or one of those “real” camper trailers…. I wanted one of them! In fact, I had decided that when we got to Darwin we’d flog this thing to get something else. It was only after dithering about what “something else” to get, that I made peace with this trailer and decided maybe it was a reasonable middle ground alternative. I was able to enjoy this for about 24 hours.
Day One at Karijini we hike into Dales Gorge and swim at Fern Pool, which is very beautiful. On the evening of Day Two I come down with some kind of gastroenteritis (perhaps what T had?) and am out for the count on Day Three, and recover on Day Four. J remains in robust health, a breastfeeding miracle, or a general miracle…..either way, I give thanks. I breastfed T until he was 5, and he was never ill, bar some minor sniffles until he weaned. A true Godsend, and I think if more mothers knew this single fact alone, more would breastfeed longer.
July 20, 2009
· Filed under Uncategorized
About 20km south of Onslow, a great free camp beside the Ashburton River.
Day 1
3.00pm: Arrive, with T feeling sick
3.10pm: Realise that we have a problem with the trailer going up. T is installed on a day bed, while P initiates repairs, involving taking apart the front end of the trailer, to realise that the problem is inaccessible. I put up the new shower tent to implement the Ron Ablution System.
5.00pm. Trailer is (dodgily) up, and dinner is served. T doesn’t eat.
Day 2.
T remains in bed, with the exception of sleeping in the car while we tour “old Onslow”. Part interesting (one old building and a cemetary) and part funny (plaques with all information long since bleached away by the sun, scattered randomly in front of absolutely nothing)
Day 3.
12.30am. T’s fever has broken. I offer him a drink of water, which he gulps down.
1.00am. T vomits – missing *most* of the bed
7.00am. P chats to Bob, our neighbour. Bob issues weather alert: ”If you want to go, you better go soon…. the weather’s coming in and once there’s an inch of rain they close the road out for four days until it dries….. Yep, it’s coming alright. Those gas pipeline workers have all got out…….. Here it comes!!!!!!!!!!! (accompanied by huge gust of wind, immediately followed by driving rain) I race to close all our windows and P gets soaked battening down everything outside.
7.45am. Breakfast.
8.00am. T vomits. P looks to me: “This is turning into family catastrophe…….. do you sometimes feel as though we have set ourselves a 12 month psychological and physiological endurance test?” Um, yes. We huddle inside with eau de chunder.
11.00am. The sun shines. T is perky and doesn’t vomit again. The road remains open
July 20, 2009
· Filed under The Big Lap, Uncategorized
No joy at Cape Range. There at 7.10am, (a significant family achievement) there were 20 cars ahead of us, and only two got in. Another reason to rail against the school system – creating artificial peak seasons! With no set plans we ended up camping (not wwoofing) at Bullara Station for 5 nights and commuting into Coral Bay for beaching and snorkelling. We feel that we missed Ningaloo, but have determined to come back – maybe even every year – *not* during school holidays.
July 1, 2009
· Filed under The Big Lap
Dear Reader, sorry it’s a feast or a famine on here. We seem to be out of range much more often than Telstra suggested. I’m blogging “off-line” and then posting when I get a chance….. hence the variety of fonts. Sorry about that, I should have mastered it within the 12 months.
Yesterday we suddenly realised that school holidays are next week, so we needed to get to Ningaloo asap, before the Perth hoards arrive. Coral Bay is completely booked out. We have two nights in Exmouth – which seems like a great town – but for us is really a shopping destination. We hope to get a camp in Cape Range National Park, and camp on the beach for a while…. but it’s first come first served there. We’ll have to queue at the rangers office from around 6.30am, and hope that someone is leaving in order to get a spot. So you can see that we won’t be doing that indefinitely! If we don’t get in there, we may have missed out on Ningaloo due to bad timing, and will head back out towards Karajini National Park. Either way, we’ll be off the Telstra grid again.
July 1, 2009
· Filed under The Big Lap, feminism, gardening, relationships
I was a bit uncertain about the wwoofing thing. I mean, I liked the concept, but being an introvert I was out of my comfort zone. When we first arrived I felt like a fish out of water (I wanted to run), and I was *astonished* to find that there were already 3 wwoofers here! I thought they’d never get anyone! This is probably the best thing we’ve done so far. Mainly due to the fantastic people here, who were incredibly welcoming – and interesting. It’s sort of a spiritual relief to hang out with people whose life is very different to your own. The Aboriginal overseer and his French girlfriend. The unhappily retired diesel fitter who found solace travelling around outback stations working on vehicles for board and fuel. The guy who traps feral dogs for a living. (FYI, there are 20 dogger zones in WA and there are vacancies. Wage: $325 a day, aiming to get one dog a day. Contact the WA Department of Agriculture). It was kind of fun to hang around with a group of young people – I can report from the frontline that not much has changed on the backpacker scene. Still drinking tequila and hooking up with each other.
P was in his element painting dongas, digging trenches and generally handymanning around. We stayed longer than planned, and P would have been keen to stay even longer (indefinitely…. I started to wonder whether P might like a late-blooming career as a jackaroo), but I felt a bit of a spare part as I wasn’t able to do as much work as I would like - somedays nothing apart from some minor babysitting - to feel comfortable that I was earning my keep, so to speak. Luckily the station owners had two young kids themselves, so were very understanding of our kids’ needs, and I think just happy to have some kids visit. The lady of the house was a kindred spirit, into kids, gardening, social issues. How lucky can you get? And even more so, they took T for a ride in their plane! And on motorbikes and trucks! T, being reserved like me, was a bit overwhelmed by joining a new community, but it was amazing watching the kids slip into the new routine. J in particular wanted to get to the “big kitchen” for breakfast and T was always concerned that we would be late for dinner.
The lifestyle here is very appealing. It’s a little community of people working, eating and socialising together. The mail arrives once a week – and the shopping is delivered by the postie. They eat a *lot* of beef and have a great vege & herb garden with chooks. They have a cook – bliss! The station owner flits about in his plane – into town for a meeting – around the station checking things out – divebombing the homestead when no-one answers the two-way. It was a wonderful introduction to wwoofing – but also off-putting in the sense that I realised (why didn’t I realise before?) that I can’t really do 4 – 6 hours of work around the place (I can’t achieve this around my *own* place!) The only way I could do this would be for P to stop work after lunch and look after the kids, which would free me up…. but what’s the point when it’s obvious to that he is *so* much more useful around the place than me? He may as well keep going…. which leaves me with the responsibility for the kids and unable to participate in the spirit of wwoof.
While here I have been reading Germaine Greer’s “Shakespeare’s Wife”, which I suspected might be a bit dry, but is actually great, and is inspiring me to get back into Shakespeare, which I haven’t explored since high school. She quotes a scholar of Elizabethan times, saying that the role of the man was very clear – let’s call that “A”, and the role of the woman was everything else… let’s call that “non-A”. And when the man’s availability or capability changed, than the woman’s role would expand to take up those duties as well. For example, if the husband became ill, then the wife would take over the running of the business and develop/utilise those skills, but otherwise wouldn’t be involved. I was thinking that maybe not much has changed. Does the equation work in the opposite direction? Maybe.
Anyway, our small stay here has definitely got me more seriously contemplating moving to a country-type property of our own. It’s alleviated *some* of my fear of social isolation. I would need to be closer to a town I think….. a three hour drive is just too far.
July 1, 2009
· Filed under Uncategorized
We’d never heard of these, but there they were on the map, kind of in the direction we were heading, so off we went. The places you’ve never heard of, just like the movies you’ve never heard of, can often be the best ones, as you arrive with no expections. Or low ones: I mean, I’ve never even heard of it so it’s probably lame, right?
A national park, this is a mesa with some spectacular gorges. In our naivete we set off for the summit. P carried J in the ergo (Aside: the ergo has been a godsend – I’ll have to write them a testamonial – I mean how many slings can you use to climb mountains with your 2.5yo?) They had a volunteer “host” at the national park, which we haven’t come across before, but was great because he lit this communal campfire and it was all very social.
